Growth Opportunities for Cotton
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Professor, Cotton and Advanced Materials Laboratory, Texas Tech University, USA,
E-mail: s.ramkumar@ttu.edu
Member states of the United
Nations are committed to implementing the Sustainability Development Agenda by
2030. As part of the plan eradication of poverty is the priority, which
requires sustainable growth in all forms. Cotton and other agricultural crops
fit well in the sustainability agenda as they impact lives of farmers,
manufacturers, exporters, retailers, and consumers.
Impact on Lives and Economy
Cotton is a drought
resistant crop requiring less water compared to some food crops and hence vital
for farmers in arid and semiarid zones of the world. Although not a food crop
it offers livelihood for small farmers in rainfed areas. Even in developed
nations such as the United States and Australia farmers use sustainable
practices as stewards of the environment. In West Texas, cotton farming is
split between dryland and irrigation, and in irrigated lands, it is supplemental
emphasizing the importance of saving resources and energy for future
generations. The consumption of cotton is related to economy, which influences
the demand. This is the situation we are currently experiencing adding stress
to the entire cotton ecosystem. Global cotton industry must use adverse
situations such as the current one to plan solutions for such scenarios in
future and create new opportunities. It is important for the cotton sector to
chart mid and long-term strategies for: 1) increasing the demand for cotton and
cotton goods; 2) increasing the yield in low productivity countries like India;
3) increasing the profitability across the supply chain; 4) enhancing the
awareness on cotton and the industry to broad consumers; and 5) collaboration with
government, brands and retailers.
Increasing the Demand
Recent discussions in local
and national cotton meetings clearly highlight the lack of demand for cotton
and the need to boost the consumption of cotton. Macro economy, affordability
and competition from other fibers are factors influencing the demand. While the
industry has little control over economy, efforts must be made to penetrate
markets, beyond fiber to fashion supply chain such as advanced textiles, where
there are opportunities. Cotton has been a preferred next-to-skin friendly
apparel as it is presold based on comfort. Cotton is penetrating beyond the commodity
markets and concerted efforts by the industry are needed to enhance the
penetration into non-commodity markets. Engaging with R&D organizations, brands,
and retailers to take cotton into functional, advanced and activewear products
is the need of the hour.
A classic example of cotton
industry working with brands to enable the penetration of cotton into
activewear is the effort by the United States’ Cotton Incorporated with Under
Armour. The cotton industry has invested heavily in understanding microplastic
issues as a way of advocating the positive aspects of non-microplastic fiber
such as cotton. Efforts should be made to engage more with consumers on the
health issues of microplastics and promote cotton as a viable candidate. The
medical industry has shifted away from using cotton drapes and overalls due to
the cost competitiveness of spunbond-meltblown-spunbond products. Environmental
issues and the comfort aspects of multi-use cotton surgical drapes must be
relayed to the medical community. There are opportunities for single-use cotton
products in the medical and health care sector. Opportunities are there in
industrial sectors where sustainability values are gaining popularity. Major
brands and private labels are incorporating cotton and other natural fibers in
their products. Costco Wholesale Corporation was one of the early entrants to
release Kirkland wipes made with cotton. Stakeholders in the industry must go
on high gear to find new and value-added markets.
Productivity Improvement
India and cotton growing African countries have productivity issue. In India, farmers, spinners, and textile exporters are striving hard to improve the productivity. Government is urged to continue and enhance the support for cotton missions aimed at increasing yield per hectare, quality enhancement and contamination elimination. Good breeding programs by national agricultural organizations like ICAR-CICR, Nagpur and state agricultural universities and extension stations such as the Tamil Nadu Agricultural University and Navsari University need to be supported with funding boost. The stakeholders particularly cotton farmers should engage regularly with extension specialists and with researchers during the growing season about treating pests, handling weeds, irrigation practices as these depend on weather and environmental conditions. In Lubbock, which is the epicenter for cotton production in the United States, such engagement efforts are well organized throughout the year by the cotton producers’ organization, Plains Cotton Growers. In India grassroot level producer spearheaded activities are needed to boost the yield and quality. Information exchanged among farmers, seed and chemical companies, and marketers will prove beneficial in terms of handling issues that affect the yield and quality. More importantly in India and Africa where land holding by individual farmer is far less than those by producers in the United States, Brazil, and Australia, uncertainties and variabilities are pronounced, which necessitates the need for timely knowledge dissemination. Technology and marketing information need to be shared in timely fashion so that they can be implemented in the growing season. The textile sector for its own benefit should enable grassroot level efforts at farm levels. High yielding and stress tolerant varieties should be developed based on soil and environmental conditions. Governments have a role to play in boosting funding support to seed companies and breeders so that quality seeds can be developed at competitive cost.
Outreach and Engagement
Sustainability is the way
forward in the textiles and manufacturing sectors. Outreach and educating the
consumers and brands are strategies that will help with enhancing the
consumption of natural fibers. Also, as natural fibers have not penetrated
technical textiles as much as synthetics, given the need for sustainable
products, efforts must be made towards research, dissemination of results, and
outreach. It may not be possible to find use in all sectors of advanced
textiles, but areas such as environmental protection, insulation, and health
offer immediate possibilities.
Opportunities for cotton in
advanced textiles must be disseminated to young leaders and consumers to boost
its consumption.
Our laboratory has been
engaging with wide spectrum of population such as Gen Z, to highlight the
usefulness and advantages of cotton. On July 12, 2024, two young leaders from
Africa visited the Cotton and Advanced Materials Laboratory at Texas Tech
University (TTU). In their first visit to the United States as Mandela
Washington fellows funded by the United States’ government, they are spending 6
weeks at TTU.
Rakobe (left) and Dr.
Mihindi (right) visiting Advanced Materials Laboratory
Dr. Idda Mihindi is a
medical doctor from Tanzania who has founded Fursa Foundation, which
manufactures and distributes washable cotton-based sanitary pads for rural
women and secondary school girls, who cannot afford hygiene products. Greogory
Rakobe is from Botswana and has interest in using native plants to develop skin
and health care products. As these two young leaders work in the sustainability
area, they expressed interest in visiting the Advanced Materials Laboratory to
learn about industrial applications of cotton.
Mihindi and Rakobe conducted
experiments using waste cotton based nonwoven pads and understood the oil
sorption capabilities of cotton. “The sustainable role of cotton used
is eye-opening to me,” stated Idda Mihindi. Visitors interacted with
graduate students in the laboratory who work in cotton and sustainability
projects enabling advanced applications for cotton.
Timely disseminating
information on new applications of cotton and natural materials will advance
the sustainability goals of textiles and manufacturing sectors. As African
continent has large population and is advancing in its economy, engaging with
next generation leaders will boost the consumption of natural fibers. The
industry should look for opportunities for natural fibers and recycled natural
products in the advanced textiles industry.
Four-Legged Table Approach
While cotton and textile
sectors are aware of the persistent problems facing the sectors, it is
imperative that a win-win development plan is formulated. Governments must play
a supporting role in reducing the risks. In the United States the five-year
Farm Bill has been a successful mechanism in mitigating risks. Current Farm
Bill expires this September, and we are witnessing the campaigns across the
country to get this bill reenacted in a timely fashion.
Imagining the strategy as a
four-legged table, to have a balanced table, all four legs are needed. The four
pillars are: 1) technology enhancement; 2) market development; 3) new product
development and 4) outreach and engagement.
Note:
Appeared in the Conference Book of the “All India Cotton Conference,” September 20-21, 2024, held at Aurangabad. The conference was organized by the Cotton Association of India and Maharashtra Cotton Ginners Association with Khandesh Ginners Association and Vidarbha Cotton Association.
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