Double
Cloth Structure
Double Cloth
Double cloths are compound class of weave in which fabric is made from two or more than two sets of warp and weft. This type of fabric is having two separate layers which are interlaced or interlocked by parent thread (threads use to form two layers) or another set of threads which are known as stitching threads. All type of double cloths are made from four series of threads; face warp, face weft, back warp, back weft. Apart from this some double cloth have extra set of stitching thread or guiding thread.
Objective to
manufacture double cloth:
- To improve thermal insulation value of fabric.
- To increase good appearance.
- For better hand feel.
Characteristics of double cloth:
- Double cloths have at least two series of warp and weft yarns.
- Upper layer is formed by interlacing face warp and weft yarn while lower layer is formed by interlacing back warp and weft yarn.
- These two layers are interlaced.
Types of double cloth:
- Self stitched double cloth : a) Face to back stitched
b) Back to face stitched
c)
Combination stitched
- Center stitched double cloth
- Thread interchanging double cloth
- Layer interchanging double cloth
- Ply interchanging double cloth
Steps
to draw design of self stitched double cloth:
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- Select weave and mark face, back according to ratio. (here the ratio of F:B is 1:1)
- Draw face weave on face warp and face weft.
- Draw back weave on back warp and back weft.
- For stitching : If it is face to back then mark all face ends up on back picks and if it is back to face stitching then mark all back ends up on face picks.
- For stitching point: If stitching is face to back then stitching point should be given back to face i.e. mark back ends up on face picks in such way that stitching point will balance the stitch. And if stitching is back to face then stitching point should be given face to back i.e. face ends up on back picks so that stitching point will balance the stitch.
- This type of double cloth doesn’t require any extra set of yarn as stitching is accomplish by parent threads only.
- In a combination stitched, stitching is face to back up to half warp yarns and for next half stitching will be back to face and stitching point given accordingly.
Steps to draw design of center stitched double
cloth:
- Select weave and mark face, back according to ratio with one stitching thread exactly in the middle of all warp ends. (here the ratio of F:B is 1:1)
- Draw face weave on face warp and face weft.
- Draw back weave on back warp and back weft.
- For stitching : Face to back, then mark all face ends up on back picks stitching thread behave like warp end for stitching.
- Stitching point should be given on stitching thread in such way that it balance the floats of warp ends.
Steps to draw
thread interchanging double cloth:
- Select weave and mark face, back according to ratio. (here the ratio of F:B is 1:1)
- Draw face weave on face warp and face weft and back weave on back warp and back weft, in such a way that any two thread will interchange their position. (here middle threads i.e 8th and 9th thread changes their position)
- For stitching: Face to back, then mark all face ends up on back picks.
- No stitching points require as interchanging of threads itself acts as stitching positions.
Steps to draw layer interchanging double cloth:
- Select weave and mark face, back according to ratio up to middle of the design, after half face back repeat will alter. (here the ratio of F:B is 1:1)
- Draw face weave on face warp and face weft and draw back weave on back warp and back weft with respective pattern.
- For stitching: Face to back, then mark all face ends up on back picks.
- No stitching points require as interchanging of fabric layer itself acts as stitching positions.
End application of double cloth :
- Insulation fabrics.
- Filter fabrics.
- Hose pipes.
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