Silk and its types:
Silk is a smooth, lustrous and elastic filament of small
diameter which is obtained from cocoons spun by a wide variety of silkworm
which is species of caterpillar. It is the only natural fiber in filament form.
Its physical characteristics are totally different from wool and allied fiber.
Silk differs from all other natural fibers in that it is
composed of an organized structure as the vegetable and other animal fibers,
but is a structure less secretion in the form of a continuous thread. Silk is
refereed as ‘The Queen Textiles’ which spells luxury, comfort and elegance.
Silk production is regarded as an important
parameter for economic development of a country as it is a labor intensive and
high income generating industry that churns out value added products of
economic importance. In India, Silk is cultivated in southern and eastern part
of the countries.
Chemical composition of raw silk fiber:
- Fibroin 70-75%
- Sericine 20-25%
- Waxy substance 2-3%
- Natural colors 1-1.5%
Characteristics
of Silk:
It
is the strongest natural fiber and has excellent luster.It
retains its shape and is relatively smooth.
It
absorbs good amount of moisture.
It
can be easily dyed.
It
is cool to wear in the summer yet warm to wear in winter.
It is versatile and very comfortable.
Physical
properties of Silk:
Strength: Silk is strong textile fiber that is, the fiber
of same diameter. It I weaker when wet than when dry, silk fiber can sustain
dead weight f 5-28grams before breaking.
Elasticity: Silk is elastic more than linen, cotton or
rayon and has good resilience.
Hygroscopic moisture: Moisture absorption of silk is
about 10-11% which is higher than cotton, linen and rayon. It absorbs
perspiration and oil from skin.
Effect of heat: Unlike cotton at 110 degree Celsius, silk
turns yellow after 15 min in an oven. It may turn yellow with the use of hot
iron.
Effect of light and mildew: Silk is not resistant to
light as compared to cotton and mildew is often fund on silk. It is relatively
resistant to other bacteria and fungi.
Chemical properties of silk:
Effect of acids: Acids such as sulphuric acid,
hydrochloric acid and nitric acid do not affect the silk if they are in the
dilute state. It is more resistant to acids as compared to vegetable fibers.
Effect of alkalis: Concentration solutions of alkalis
such as caustic soda of caustic potash dissolve silk. It is advisable to use a
mild soap with no alkalis for washing silk fabrics.
Affinity for dyestuff: Silk has a natural affinity for
dye. Basics, acids and direct dyes are all used on silks.
Action of bleaches: care should be taken to
control bleaching conditions. Hydrogen peroxide and per borates bleaches are
used when silk requires beaching.
Types of Silk
Silk is classified into two main categories:
Mulberry Silk
Non-mulberry silk: which is further classified
as- Tasar, Eri and Muga
Mulberry (Cultivated) Silk:
It is main type of silk which is obtained from silkworm that feeds on leaves of mulberry plant.
The bulk of commercial silk produced in the World comes from this variety.
It is main type of silk which is obtained from silkworm that feeds on leaves of mulberry plant.
The bulk of commercial silk produced in the World comes from this variety.
Mulberry silk comes from the silkworm, Bombyx Mori which
solely feeds on the leaves of mulberry plant.
This type of silk accounts for 80% of Nation’s total production.
Most fabulous silk materials are produced out of this variety. Sarees from Kashmir, Banaras, and Mysore belong to this variety.
This type of silk accounts for 80% of Nation’s total production.
Most fabulous silk materials are produced out of this variety. Sarees from Kashmir, Banaras, and Mysore belong to this variety.
Tasar Silk (Non-mulberry silk):
Among the commercially important varieties of wild silk,
Tasar is the most popular. Tasar silk worms are reared in tropical and
temperate zones.
The cocoons are generally yellow or grey and the female
spins larger than male.
The Tasar silkworm is very different from the domesticated mulberry silkworm and the insects mostly live in the wild on bushes and trees on which they feed. It is coarser as compared to mulberry silk.
The Tasar silkworm is very different from the domesticated mulberry silkworm and the insects mostly live in the wild on bushes and trees on which they feed. It is coarser as compared to mulberry silk.
Muga
Silk:
The golden yellow Muga silk is secreted by a semi-domesticated multivoltine species. The cocoon is yellow or glossy white.
Muga silk is extracted from a rare species of insects which is not found anywhere in the World expect in the North Eastern part of India.
Muga is obtained from the silk worm called Antheraea Assama
The golden yellow Muga silk is secreted by a semi-domesticated multivoltine species. The cocoon is yellow or glossy white.
Muga silk is extracted from a rare species of insects which is not found anywhere in the World expect in the North Eastern part of India.
Muga is obtained from the silk worm called Antheraea Assama
Eri
Silk:
Eri worms feeds on leaves of varieties of plant, among them castor is preferred variety of plant.
This is the only completely domesticated non-mulberry variety. Its silk is spun as it cannot be reeled.
Eri worms feeds on leaves of varieties of plant, among them castor is preferred variety of plant.
This is the only completely domesticated non-mulberry variety. Its silk is spun as it cannot be reeled.
Silk
fabric care:
It
is advisable to dry clean the silk fabrics. While hand washing, it should be
washed in cold water and us small amount of soap or detergent. After washing
it, rinse with cold water. If pressing is needed use an all cotton iron board
cover with low or moderate steam setting and press on the wrong side of the
fabric while ironing.
0 Comments