Bedford Cords

Bedford Cords

Bedford cords are classified as: 

-Plain Faced

On Alternate Pick(Wadded)

On pair of picks(Wadded)

-Twill Faced

Only on Alternate Pick(Twill faced Wadded)

Types of Bedford cords:

• Wadded Bedford
• Plain Faced Bedford
• Bedford arranged with alternative picks
• Twill faced Bedford
• Wadded Bedford

Method of Bedford Construction:

• Lifts with plain weave are first indicated. The number of ends between pair of plains ends vary according to the width of the cord.
• Insert warp float marks on 1^st and 2^nd pick of cord and 3^rd and 4^th pick of other cord.
• Design are completed by inserting  plain weave on cord ends.

Wadded Bedford Cord:

• The structure contain thick wadding and padding ends which lie between rib face cloth and the weft floats on the undersides the arrangements to give greater prominence to the cord.
• Wadding ends increases the height of the cord
• It is always placed at center
• Stitching point is not mentioned in wadding
• For 1^st and 2^nd pick wadding ends are up to 1^st cord
• For 3^rd and 4^th pick wadding ends are up in 2^nd cord.

  

  Wadded Bedford Cords
  

  
  

Loom requirement :

A dobby loom with fast reed and heavy beat is suitable for manufacturing Bedford cord fabric.

Construction of plain Bedford cord on a pair of picks:

• The repeat size of design is splitted into cutting ends and face ends
• The plain is weaved by cutting ends and the cord by face ends.
• Insertion of cutting ends and face ends in face
• Then design, draft and peg plan of the Bedford cord.
• Futher interlacement of various picks in the repeat with the face and the cutting ends.

Construction of Twill faced Bedford:

• Instead of plain weave twill weave is inserted along with the cord or rib weave in the structure.
• The prominence of warp is brought more on to the surface.
• The twill weave is inserted on alternate picks.
• The basic weave is 1/3 twill.

  

  Twill faced Bedford

Construction of Bedford Cords:

• Two series of warp threads are considered while construcation of Bedford cords.
• The plain weave on alternate or pair of picks is inserted while the rest of the group constituent of the face thread which is weave as cord.
• Other group i.e cutting ends are weave as plain
• The neighboring cords are separated by cutting ends.
• Plain or twill weave can alter the cords.
• Wadding threads(special threads) may be sometimes inserted in between normal warp threads.
• The main purpose of wadding threads is to increase the prominence of the cords and also to increase the weight, bulk and strength of the fabric.

End used of Bedford Cords:

• Dress materials
• Military dresses
• Suiting wollen and worsted fabrics ( Heavy type)
• Furnishing
• Sportswear
• Ladies wear medium weight material

Reference:

Fabric Structure and Design by N.Gokarneshan

Images-http://avisionftextiles.blogspot.in